How Long Do Solar Panels Last and What's Their Maintenance
Solar panels typically last 25–30 years, with a slow 0.5% annual efficiency decrease due to natural wear. Maintenance involves quarterly gentle cleaning (soft cloth + water, avoiding harsh chemicals) to clear dust/debris, checking loose electrical connections, monitoring inverter health, and occasional professional inspections.
Typical Panel Lifespan
Most top-tier manufacturers promise at least 92% of original power output in year 12, and around 85% to 88% by the end of year 25. The actual functional lifespan often extends well beyond three decades. Studies from organizations like the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) show that modern panels degrade at a very slow rate, typically between 0.5% and 0.8% of their efficiency per year.
The primary cause is constant exposure to the elements—ultraviolet light, thermal cycling (panels can heat up to 65°C / 149°F on a sunny day and cool down at night), and humidity. High-quality panels use tempered glass, robust frames, and advanced encapsulation materials (like EVA) to slow this process. The 0.5% annual degradation rate is now a common target for premium monocrystalline panels. For a homeowner, this translates to a system that will still be producing significant electricity for decades. Let's put real numbers on it: a 6 kW system in a sunny region might produce about 9,000 kWh in its first year. With a 0.7% annual degradation, in year 20, it would still produce approximately 7,830 kWh—a reduction, but still a massive amount of free power.
A 2022 study by the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) on long-term performance found that the median degradation rate for solar panels is approximately 0.5% per year. This means that after 25 years, a typical, well-made panel is likely operating at about 87.5% of its original rated capacity.
The 25-year product and performance warranties are your formal safeguard. Here's how they differ in practice, using real data points from leading brands:
Warranty Type | What It Covers | Typical Terms (for Tier 1 Brands) | What it Means for You |
Product/Manufacturer's Warranty | Defects in materials and workmanship. | 12 to 15 years of full coverage. | Covers physical failures like junction box issues, delamination, or major glass cracks. |
Linear Performance Warranty | Guaranteed minimum power output. | 92% output in Year 1, degrading to about 85% output by Year 25-30. | Legally assures you of a minimum energy production level over the system's life. |
The weak points that can shorten a system's effective life are usually the "balance of system" modules: inverters, which have a shorter 10- to 15-year lifespan and may need replacement, and roof mounting hardware. Proper installation is also a critical factor; panels installed with incorrect clamps or on an incompatible roof type can suffer from stress corrosion or water intrusion over 10-15 years.

Efficiency Over Time
For the modern, tier-1 monocrystalline panel on your home, the industry has largely standardized around a pattern: a one-time, slightly larger drop in the first year of operation—typically between 2% and 3% of its initial output—followed by a much slower, steady decline each year after that. This means a new 400W panel might operate as a 388W panel by the end of year one. Following that, the annual loss slows to a relative crawl, usually between 0.4% and 0.7% for quality panels.
Light-Induced Degradation (LID) occurs in the initial hours of sunlight exposure, where oxygen impurities in the silicon cause a rapid efficiency loss, accounting for most of that 1-3% first-year hit. Potential-Induced Degradation (PID) happens when a high voltage difference between the panel and its grounded frame drives a leakage current, potentially causing up to 30% or more power loss in severe, untreated cases over a few years. Thermal cycling is a constant, daily stress; a panel's temperature can fluctuate by 40-50°C (72-90°F) between day and night, expanding and contracting materials, which slowly fatigues solder bonds and connections.
A panel with a 0.4% annual rate will produce significantly more electricity over 25 years than one with a 0.7% rate. Here is a comparison of typical degradation profiles:
Panel Tier / Technology | Typical First-Year Loss | Stabilized Annual Degradation Rate | Expected Output at Year 25 (Approx.) |
Premium Monocrystalline (PERC, HJT) | 2.0% | 0.4% - 0.5% | ~87.5% - 89.0% |
Standard Monocrystalline | 2.5% | 0.6% - 0.7% | ~84.5% - 86.0% |
Older/Polycrystalline Models | 3.0% | 0.7% - 0.9% | ~80.0% - 82.5% |
For a system owner, the financial impact is direct. Using a 0.5% vs. 0.7% annual rate on a 10 kW DC system in a location producing 14,000 kWh annually, the difference in total energy lost over 20 years exceeds 14,000 kWh. A sudden drop of 5-10% in a single season likely points to a specific fault (like a dirty panel, shading, or inverter issue), not normal degradation.
Cleaning and Inspections
A study in the Southwest U.S. measured seasonal output losses exceeding 20% on completely neglected residential arrays. The good news is that a consistent, simple regimen of cleaning and visual checks can recover nearly all of this lost power, protecting your expected 20- to 25-year financial return on the system.
For most homeowners in areas with 25 to 50 inches of annual rainfall, a natural rinse might be sufficient. However, if you go 4 to 6 weeks without a good rain during dry seasons, cleaning becomes cost-effective. Use a garden hose with a soft spray nozzle and a squeegee on an extension pole with a 12- to 18-inch soft, non-abrasive scrubber head. The water should be cool and applied in the early morning or evening to prevent thermal shock; spraying a hot panel with cold water can cause micro-cracks. Never use a pressure washer, as its high psi (often over 1,500) can force water past seals and damage the anti-reflective coating. A simple, 3-to-5-minute rinse per panel is typically enough.
The focus is on identifying physical changes that indicate a problem. Look for these specific issues:
· Micro-cracks and Snail Trails: Often caused by installation stress or hail, they can grow over 2 to 5 years and significantly block current, reducing a single panel's output by 10-30%.
· Delamination and Browning: This is when the clear plastic encapsulant layer separates from the glass or cells, appearing as cloudy patches or a yellow/brown discoloration. It accelerates degradation by allowing moisture and oxygen to reach the cells, potentially dropping panel efficiency by over 1% per year once it starts.
· Corroded Frames or Junction Boxes: Check for white, green, or brown corrosion, especially on the aluminum frame edges and the small plastic junction box on the panel's back.
· Loose or Damaged Mounting Hardware: Look for any bolts, clamps, or rails that appear shifted, loose, or rusted. A single loose connection can create a point of stress and wind uplift risk.
· Persistent Shading: New tree growth or a newly installed vent pipe can cast a shadow that wasn't there during installation, disproportionately affecting an entire string of panels.
If you see a 5-10% drop in your system's daily production that doesn't correlate with weather, it's time for a physical check. Catching a single faulty panel or a chewed wire early can prevent a 20-50% loss in a whole section of your array for months. A professional inspection every 3 to 5 years, costing 200 to 500, is a smart investment to validate your own checks and ensure all electrical connections remain tight and corrosion-free.
Common Repair Needs
The inverter is the most frequent point of failure; industry data shows a 3% to 5% annual failure rate for some models after the 10-year mark, with the median time to first repair often falling between years 12 and 15 of system life. Beyond that, physical damage from weather, wildlife, or wear-and-tear necessitates occasional fixes. Over a 25-year lifespan, a system owner should budget for and expect one to three significant repair incidents, with the most common being a full inverter replacement. Proactive monitoring, which tracks daily kWh production, is your first alert that a repair is needed—a sudden drop of 15% or more in a string's output rarely fixes itself and requires investigation.
The financial impact of ignoring these repairs is direct: a single faulty panel in a string can drag down the output of the entire chain by 20-40%, and a failed inverter stops production completely, which at a utility rate of 0.18 per kWh can mean losing 3 to $8 of value per day, depending on system size.
· Inverter Replacement: Central (string) inverters have a functional lifespan of 10 to 15 years. The cost to replace one, including labor, typically ranges from 1,500 to 3,000 for a residential unit. Microinverters, mounted under each panel, have a longer expected life of 20-25 years, but if one fails, the replacement cost (parts and labor for roof access) is usually 300 to 600 per unit.
· Panel-Level Repairs (Junction Box, Diodes, Snail Trails): The junction box on the back of a panel can overheat or suffer from water ingress, causing a 50-100% failure of that specific panel. Repair costs are 200 to 500. "Snail trails" or micro-cracks that significantly degrade performance may require panel replacement, which can cost 400 to 800 per panel, including the critical work of matching the electrical specifications to the existing array.
· Wiring and Connection Issues: Troubleshooting and repairing a damaged cable run or multiple connectors generally costs 250 to 750. Loose main electrical connections at the combiner box or inverter are also a common, albeit less expensive, fix.
· Mounting Hardware and Racking: In coastal regions, aluminum racking can suffer from corrosion after 15-20 years. High-wind events (70+ mph) can loosen clamps or bolts. Re-torquing hardware or replacing a section of corroded rail might cost 500 to 1,200, depending on roof complexity and labor time for a crew.
The process of diagnosing and executing a repair follows a clear sequence. First, your monitoring system alerts you to a production drop—say, a consistent 25% decrease in one section of your array.
Replacing Your System
The most common replacement window falls between years 20 and 28 of a system's life. The decision is rarely about a complete failure; it's an economic calculation. Key triggers include your system's actual power output falling below 80% of its original nameplate rating, facing a second major inverter replacement (a 2,500 to 4,000 investment), or encountering recurring faults in multiple panels that are no longer under warranty.
A system installed with 2010-era 15% efficient panels occupying 450 square feet of roof might have been rated at 6 kW. Today, using 22-23% efficiency panels, the same physical area can support a new 8.5 to 9 kW system—a direct 40-50% increase in potential power capacity. This leap means that even after a 0.5% annual degradation, the new system's output in its first year will be 60-80% higher than the old system's current, degraded output.
Cost & Performance Factor | Keep & Maintain Old 7kW System (Year 15) | Replace with New 9kW System |
Upfront Cost (Year 1) | $3,200 (Inverter + Repairs) | 27,000(Gross)−8,100 (30% Tax Credit) + 2,500(Decom.=∗∗21,400 Net Cost** |
Year 1 Annual Production | ~5,900 kWh (at 84% of original) | ~12,500 kWh (at 100% of new rating) |
Year 10 Est. Production | ~5,100 kWh (degraded to 72.5%) | ~11,875 kWh (degraded to 95%) |
Total Electricity Value (10 yrs at $0.30/kWh, escalating 4%/yr) | ~$21,500 | ~$46,200 |
Total 10-Year Net Position | Value: 21,500−RepairCosts:3,200 = ~$18,300 | Value: 46,200−NetSystemCost:21,400 = ~$24,800 |
A compelling case usually exists when the new system's estimated payback period is under 10 years and the 20-year net savings (factoring in all costs) exceeds $25,000. The decision ultimately boils down to whether you want to continue managing a 20-year-old asset with diminishing returns or invest in a new, warrantied asset that resets your energy costs for the next 25 years.

Making the Right Choice
The current performance and age of your existing system, the total cost of ownership for each potential path forward, and the evolving technology and electricity rates in your area. For example, a 10-year-old system with minor issues is a clear candidate for repair, while a 20-year-old system needing a $3,000 inverter replacement and producing at only 78% of its original capacity makes replacement a strong contender. The goal is to calculate the Internal Rate of Return (IRR) for each option, using real projections for energy production, utility rate inflation (historically 2-4% annually), and all associated costs.
To make a rational decision, you must compare the three main paths through a detailed, 10-year financial projection. Gather your last 12 months of electricity bills, your solar monitoring production data, and at least two professional quotes for any proposed work.
1. Path A: Repair and Maintain the Existing System. First, quantify the exact performance loss. If your 6 kW system now produces 7,800 kWh annually instead of its original 9,500 kWh, that's an 18% deficit. Calculate the annual financial loss by multiplying the missing 1,700 kWh by your current utility rate (e.g., 0.28/kWh), which equals 476 lost per year.
2. Path B: Partial Upgrade (e.g., Inverter + Add-On Panels). This is viable if your existing panels are in good health (degradation <0.8%/year) but your inverter failed.
3. Path C: Full System Replacement. The new system might produce 12,000 kWh annually, a 53% increase over your old degraded output. The financial analysis here focuses on the new simple payback period (Net System Cost / Annual Electricity Value) and the 20-year net savings. If the new system pays for itself in 9 years and delivers $25,000 in net savings over two decades, it outperforms sinking money into an aging array.
Create a spreadsheet that models the Net Present Value (NPV) for each path over a 15-year horizon. Input all costs, your local utility's annual rate increase (3% is a safe estimate), and projected system production with degradation. The path with the highest NPV and the lowest long-term risk is typically the correct one. For most homeowners, if your system is over 15 years old and requires a repair exceeding 20% of the cost of a new system, replacement becomes the most rational, future-proof investment.